Christian Siriano, late of “Project Runway” (first as a contestant, then as chief mentor within the reinvented series), has by no means been one in every of New York Style Week’s star sights. His garments, which thumb their nostril at irony in favor of the blandly glamorous, have at all times been a little bit too namby-pamby Hollywood for the Wes Anderson affinity set.
However this has been a trend season like no different, so it’s maybe becoming that Mr. Siriano pulled off what could have been the coup of the week: the most important, and most unabashedly dressed up, bodily present that befell.
To do it, he lured about 80 of the still-here model set not solely out of Manhattan however out of New York Metropolis totally, and as much as his home in Westport, Conn., for a socially distanced runway in a grassy swath of yard, full with lavender gin cocktails, private picnic baskets and taffeta in full bloom.
Was everybody actually so determined for human connection and a stay present that they’d journey 90 minutes out of state to see it? Was it literal escapism? Or was one thing else occurring?
The entire above.
Every look, from the little plaid St.-Tropez miniskirt-’n’-bra-top fits to the Ascot black sheaths with trumpet flounces on the sleeve and hem, and the slick flared trousers got here with its personal matching masks — solely pure provided that Mr. Siriano was among the many first New York designers to pivot to making face masks throughout the private protecting tools crunch of the early pandemic. Simply as he was one of many first designers to champion range of dimension and pores and skin shade on the runway.
That’s actuality, although other than one easy lengthy black costume with “Vote” printed throughout it, fantasy within the type of poufs and flamenco ruffles and marriage ceremony cake layers of tulle prevailed.
And all of it culminated in a pregnant Coco Rocha strutting out in a pink turtleneck high hooked up to a trailing taffeta flounce, who then leapt into the swimming pool in celebration. Attendees blinked, and blinked once more, as she clamored out, waterlogged however laughing. Then they shook their heads and, by way of their masks, grinned.
Mr. Siriano just isn’t pushing boundaries. He’s not that man and by no means will probably be. He’s not going to reshape identification in material. However possibly he can change the temper.
You suppose that is no time for trend or showmanship, as a result of life is simply too heavy, the world in too dire a spot? Suppose once more, busters, Mr. Siriano stated. That is precisely the time. Frivolity has a deeper objective.
And possibly he’s proper. In any case, he’s not the one one musing alongside such traces.
“We need clothes that make us smile,” Tom Ford, one of many few former star sights who was a part of the official calendar, stated in a cri de coeur of a video monologue. He talked in regards to the “nightmare” of designing his newest assortment, with pattern rooms shut down and hibernation the norm, and the way trend, for him, got here to symbolize the promise of a greater, happier time.
The end result, posted as a glance e-book of nonetheless pictures, was precisely that: a visit again in time to the kinds of the Seventies when he first made his identify. It was all animal print and floral fabulousness (for women and men) in slinky jersey, tie-dye hostess caftans and fuchsia satin joggers. In the event that they weren’t precisely plowing new floor — to anybody who remembers Mr. Ford’s early Gucci oeuvre, they are going to be achingly acquainted — they’d a sure cheerful oomph.
As did Hillary Taymour’s “digital activation” for Collina Strada: a contagiously charming and severely trippy movie involving tie-dye cornfields, floating cows, leaping frogs and a dancing flower particular person created by the illustrator Sean-Kierre Lyons. Fashions of many ages, sizes and bodily skills wore Ms. Taymour’s model of largely upcycled bodysuits, slip clothes and hoodies in fruit-bowl shades. The occasional child additionally appeared. And pets.
Ms Taymour has made addressing the local weather disaster and trend’s position in it the inspiration of her label. Given the present spate of pure disasters, this might have led to a set rife with nihilism, however Ms. Taymour selected to wash it in daylight; to recommend, because the title stated, “change is cute.”
It’s a peculiar adjective to decide on for a time when everybody else is banging on about historic import, however you realize what? When all was stated and completed, and regardless of the type, it appeared attainable, for a second, that it was.