Visiting the hammams of Istanbul was like taking a rigorous course in pleasure itself, a syllabus dedicated to exploring the granular texture of bodily enjoyment, and to proving that pleasure holds its personal pathways to that means, that it would matter most at exactly these moments when it appears most misplaced. Life finds surprising methods to make this argument. In line on the grocery retailer a number of weeks after I returned from Istanbul, just some days earlier than lockdown, with my very own cart filled with diapers and Pedialyte, I admired the cart of the aged girl standing in entrance of me. It held nothing however cookies and beer. Her cart appeared to be telling me, You’ll want these diapers, however that’s not all you’ll want. She had so a few years of dwelling underneath her belt. I wager she knew a good quantity about pleasure, and in addition about endurance — how every permits the opposite, and the way unattainable they’re to separate.
Pleasure calls for presence. It invitations you to inhabit your physique extra totally; no a part of you is held at take away. For hundreds of years, the Turkish tub has embodied the seductive prospect of seeing different folks’s our bodies not merely bodily uncovered but in addition psychically uncovered, caught inside the actual vulnerability of enjoyment. There could be a radical honesty to pleasure, a profound nakedness in surrendering totally to unguarded, un-self-conscious states of enjoyment. It’s tougher to cover or dissimulate once you’re having fun with your self.
Describing the baths in her 18th-century Turkish Embassy letters, Montagu was not solely struck by them as areas of publicity however by the truth that they functioned as a protected social house for girls: “In short, it is the women’s coffeehouse, where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, etc.” She was a foreigner describing intimacies she had no entry to — spoken in a language she couldn’t communicate, fitted into narratives of her personal design. What she was describing in her letters wasn’t a lot the tradition itself however her personal fantasy of a sure form of intimacy and feminine society.
Pleasure calls for presence. It invitations you to inhabit your physique extra totally; no a part of you is held at take away.
However past the display screen of these projections, a strong tradition of public bathing has been thriving for hundreds of years. Over lunch sooner or later in Istanbul, Sabiha Çimen, the Turkish photographer who took the pictures that accompany this text, advised me concerning the Mihrimah Sultan, a hammam she used to go to. It all the time felt like a retreat from the town’s frenetic bustle, she advised me, one other world throughout the atypical world of the streets and crowds. A couple of hours later, I discovered its nondescript entrance above a staircase tucked beside a gasoline station on Fevzi Pasa, a busy street that took me previous an evening-gown purchasing district and a bridal-gown purchasing district and a particular micro purchasing district that appeared to specialize solely in silken bathrobes.
The Mihrimah Sultan hammam had a unique aesthetic than the vacationer hammams within the outdated metropolis: much less magnificence, extra consolation. The lounge had a big-screen TV and three drooping purple balloons tied to the plume of a potted fern; a giant plastic column filled with multicolored drugstore luffas stood like a sentinel within the nook. Two attendants smoked on the high of the staircase; one other emerged from the workplace with a bathtub of hummus in a single hand and a plastic bag of simit within the different. Contained in the hammam itself, most of us wore solely the plain black underwear we had rented for 5 lira apiece. As an alternative of fairy-tale mounds of shimmering white bubbles from the torba, we squirted drugstore bathe gel throughout our backs. The staggering grandeur of the old-city hammams had been changed by one thing humbler, the dusky sky seen via portals lower into the stucco dome, its curves streaked with rust-red trails of dripping water.
The pageantry of luxurious had been changed by real sociability, and the ladies gathered throughout me with their mates and sisters and cousins and daughters, maybe speaking about among the identical issues I spoke about with my mates again on the tenth Road baths: the hourly exhaustion of taking good care of kids; the guilt and weariness and gratitude of displaying up for work and motherhood; and by no means having sufficient of ourselves to do justice to both one. In that warmth, it was all the time tougher to cover something. We have been wrung-out and woozy, blissfully depleted; there wasn’t a lot vitality left for dissimulation or sugarcoating. We have been “stark naked, without any beauty or defect concealed.” On the Mihrimah Sultan, the ladies conspired and consoled throughout me, chatting concerning the smallest trivia of their lives and resting their drained thighs and exposing their C-section scars, testifying with their very presence to our collective religion that taking good care of our bodily our bodies may assist alleviate their psychic burdens.